Sunday, July 31, 2011

Shadow Weave Class

I will be teaching an online Shadow Weave class starting in late August.  For details go to http://weavolution.com and look in the classes section.  Students attend via computer and are encouraged to conduct a weave study.  The class will cover 4 - 8 shaft shadow weave, drafting and varying treadling plans to vary the design.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Salvage and Restore?

I have been asked to help with some equipment that was sitting in some moisture (a sewage break).  Upon first inspection the blackened wood seemed quite suspect, however after an initial cleaning with a mild bleach solution it looks like this might not be so bad.

The wood seems structurally sound although the product could not be sold by the owner without repair.  So weavers, if you can put your looms into rubber feet (as the countermarch looms and LeClerc looms usually are) it will prevent moisture traveling up the wood.  With some further tlc and elbow grease I may be able to restore the lower portions of the wood.

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Yarn Inventory Spreadsheet

I created this spreadsheet that helps me keep track of my yarn inventory.  It can be found here -

https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApZXJvcrXSzCdFdsUWhSLXZReW1ad2Rma2ZZXzl5WEE&hl=en_US

Hopefully all the formats are still in the right place as I had to clear the columns.  Leave a comment and let me know what you think?

Dawn

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Warping Mill

As requested, here are photos of the mill with some rudimentary dimensions:

Mill folded stands about 52 inches high - center pole is a 1 1/2 diameter plumbers metal pole with screw cap top.


Base is made up of 2 x 2s and some mitred 1.5 x 1 pieces, metal pole is capped by a plastic 2 inch piece which sits in a hole all the way down to the bottom (metal pole sits 1/2 inch up from floor)



Cross pieces which support the side poles are 30 inches across, 1 1/2 inch wood pole is countersunk and screwed/glued.

The frame consists of 2 frames 30 in width, wood poles 40 inches long.  One frame interlocks with the other so the frame can fold (see how cross piece is one above and one sits below)


Cross pieces (24") with 1 1/2 inch dowels 5 inches long countersunk, glued and screwed.  Cross piece is 1 1/2 x 1 x 24" long, half circle cut to wrap around the wood vertical poles.  Screw eye bolts secure the two pieces together to secure the frame and make the cross bars/posts



Cross bars in place, the lower cross bars can be put according to your warp length.  Total circumference is 2 yards around.  Wood used was poplar and lightly stained.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Warping Mill Plans

In a recent discussion on Weavolution I described a home made warping mill I had made.  I will post photos as soon as I can access the mill and will include measurements for those interested.  I have had it for at least 6 years and it is holding up very well for a cost of approximately $50 dollars.  You can also email me privately via contact info or comments.

Warping Front to Back


Previously we looked at dressing for all occasions. Back to front, and back to front with weights (warp running front to back – not through the reed or heddles). Now lets look at the easy one – Front to Back. 

This is where a lot of people will say, that’s how I was taught, or that is how it is done in that great weaving book…. Each method has it’s place and each weaver uses their favorite method.  Front to back is useful for tying on to an existing warp on a smaller loom and for designing in the reed.

To begin. Place lease sticks in your crosses and secure them to the front beam of the loom. Cut the ends of your warp. If you used a guide string for center, find the center of the reed and dent accordingly. Or measure to one side of the reed for the width of your warp. For example; my warp is 10 inches, I measure 5 inches from center and start to dent. For my reed and sett I use a denting pattern of 2, 2, 1.
After a small section has been placed through the reed be sure to loosely knot to prevent your threads from coming out of the reed. When the warp has been dented in the reed (threaded through the reed) go to the back of the loom taking with you your draft and threading plan. Figure out how many heddles you need for each shaft and decide which side you would like to start threading. REMEMBER – your threading plan is now to be viewed upside down! If your plan is a 1,2,3,4 then you will thread 4,3,2,1.

Start to thread using your threading hook.
When your threading is complete tie the warp onto the back warp beam. Beam the warp under tension.  If your lease sticks are still in the front this may help with tensioning, if the sticks seem to hinder (depending on the yarn) take them out and raise a tabby shed to help tension.

 BE SURE TO WATCH AS THE END OF THE WARP NEARS THE HEDDLES AT THE FRONT – cut and tie the warp onto the front cloth beam.  Once the warp is tied onto the front apron rod and is nicely tensioned, you can raise a tabby shed and insert the lease sticks in the back of the warp.



Lease sticks in warp chain at front of loom




Cut ends ready for sleying - measure at reed for start of denting.  Secure lease sticks to breast beam of loom to free your hands.

















 View from back of loom




Be sure to read your draft "upside down" as you are working from the back to thread the heddles




Threading the heddles from the back of the loom


Tie the warp to the back apron rod and wind the warp under tension



Side view (lease sticks have since been positioned at rear by lifting tabby sheds - this is easier to do ath the very end when the warp is under tension)


Tying the warp to the front apron

Saturday, July 2, 2011

How Many Looms????

I have probably owned 30 looms.  As of now I own 5, I am thinking of selling the cherry Norwood as I love my Swedish looms so much.  My goal is to teach from home and weave. I love Toika looms (as anyone who has read this blog enough may gather).  I currently own 2 Laila looms by Toika - 26 weave width countermarch, AVL PDL 60 inch with 16 shafts and compudobby and a GlimĂ„kra 63 inch loom for Drawloom weaving.  I am hoping to replace the Norwood with a Toika 48 inch Liisa.

Stay tuned as I hope to have lottsa weaving happening.  Currently working on an overshot sample in red and white, this will then be extended to the 60 inch AVL for throws.

Dawn