Saturday, January 22, 2011

Counterbalance loom is going to a new home!

Reluctantly - I agreed to let go of the mahogany color counterbalance loom.  It is going to a relatively new weaver who is jumping in the deep end and getting a nice decent size loom!  I hope she gets many hours of pleasure from this loom.  It has great tension and a wonderful shed.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Harrisville Loom Sold

Harrisville 8 shaft loom is sold.  I am now thinking of having to sell the Toika - which is SOOOO Pretty!  But in order to do what I need in the way of drawloom weaving I think it should go to a home well deserving!  I would HATE to drill into that beautiful loom!  If only I had room for just 1 more little loom.....then I could keep my lovely TOIKA......sigh...


Anyone interested in an 8 shaft like new TOIKA!  it can take the 16H/24H box, all texsolv, worm gear advance?  $2600 OBO?  Hmmm, maybe I'll change my mind and keep it.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Tying One On (A new warp that is)

I usually beam my new warp and tie the new to the old at both sets of lease sticks while sitting inside the back of the loom.  This method is preferable for the larger AVL and Toika.  However, late last night I had an epiphany!  My Toika has a warp crank at the front of the loom which can release or tighten warp!  As I am making narrow scarves so I can now knot the new warp to the existing at the reed and wind the warp under tension while sitting at the front of the loom.

 

This is a view of the back side of the warp advance on the Toika loom.  

Transferring Post from Wordpress

HD 8 shaft loom and Swedish style CB loom for sale

It is a new year so probably a good time to clean house.  I am selling my 8 shaft, 22″ weave width Harrisville floor loom, 10 treadles, new friction brake, clean heddles and one reed.  Asking a measley $800!
picks at http://www.flickr.com/photos/50047366@N02/sets/72157625670476531/
Restored mahogany colored Swedish style loom, 4 shafts, 6 treadles, asking $475.  40 inch weave width.
Add comment January 9, 2011Edit

Porrey and Portee Cross

For all my students out there this is an example of why I say make 2 crosses, one at the top (the lease or porrey cross) and a lower cross (portee or counting cross).  Usually a portee cross is recommended for long warps, I like to use 2 crosses in the event something happens to the first.
I was using narrow metal curtain rods as lease sticks and to my horror – they broke apart and I watched my cross disappear before my eyes.  I knew I could use the portee cross which was at the end of the warp chain.   If using this portee cross to set groups in the raddle then this cross would be used first.  Usually I beam with the lease sticks in but when using wool it creates some furring.  My warp had been spread in 1/2 inch increments and appeared in good order so I beamed without the sticks until the end of the warp chain.  At this point I replaced the lease sticks into the portee cross and the warp was beamed without further problems.
When considering the Porrey and Portee cross, they can be easily identified by thinking of the Portee (from the word porte – meaning carry) as the raddle or carrying cross.  You would carry this cross ready to be inserted into the raddle.
Happy Weaving!
Add comment December 31, 2010Edit

TOIKA Eeva tie up

I had previously had this loom warped with rug warp using only 4 shafts. I decided to set up all 8 for a pinwheel wool scarf.
Now the Toika looms I find to be heavier (a plus) and a more compact layout (plus and minus).
So when tying up, the lams and treadles are in closer proximity. As a result I decided to modify the treadles with eye hooks and pins to tie up. I marked the treadle ties and proceeded on a few hour quest for the near perfect tie up. It took a while but now I know that the back 3 ties require tying at the highest point.
Here is a view from the back.
Once the loom is set up properly it is a real pleasure to weave upon, it is quite, comfortable and produces wonderful cloth.
Add comment December 30, 2010Edit

Winter Wool Scarves

I recently acquired a stash of wool yarn, some zepyhr silk wool, some 2/18 merino and some 2/20 wool. It has been a while since I have used wool and had to re-adjust some of my techniques to accommodate for the furring whilst warping and slight felting during wet finishing.
I made a scarf from charcoal zephyr with a dusky lilac weft and wove in an advancing/overlay twill. The pattern is on 16 shafts in a pointed draw. Whilst beaming I found the fibers to lock together. Using a round rod for lease sticks and minimizing the number of threads in each dent gave better results. When the scarf was woven I hemstitched groups of 8 threads and twisted and knotted the fringe of the first piece. The scarf was then washed by hand with a gentle rinse and press. The end of the tassels did felt together a little. On the second scarf I left x amount of inches unwoven and then wove approx 2 inches to hold what was to become the tassels in place. I then washed and pressed first and then undid the 2 inches of weaving to enable me to make the twisted fringe. Washing before twisting or finishing the tassels gave a much more satisfactory result.
For the mens scarves I used a straight draw with miscellaneous stripes in the 2/18 merino. I secured the ends of the tassels with 2 inches of weaving and washed and finished. Upon pressing I trimmed the tassels leaving them untwisted for a more masculine look.
Add comment December 23, 2010Edit

Warping Back to Front

Some time ago in a previous post I illustrated warping back to front. In college this was the way to warp (England) although England isn’t exactly “Europe” so the Swedish method one might refer to is still different. I am a proponent of do it right – but that doesn’t mean there is only one way to skin a cat.
I am teaching a workshop on Saturday the 21st of Nov on Warping Back to Front. I decided to research and refresh and saw little info on this method. Most people ran the warp from the front straight to the back beam on the raddle. That works, if you have Gorrilla arms and can hold tension on a larger loom and still reach the back beam crank. Oh, unless you are a member of the “Incredibles.” All the Swedish books show a community of “helpers” straddled on the floor at the back of the loom, grinning fiendishly as they help their weaverly friend.
In college (harping back to the good ole days) I have to admit we had a wonderful gentleman who was somewhat like the cartoon character “Mr. Ben” – you know – “suddenly, the shopkeeper appeared.” As did our wonderful weaving assistant except “suddenly, your dressed loom appeared.” But nontheless, I did my share of warping back to front.
I like to describe this as the “ole reliable” method, pretty much works for every warp. Of course for the newbee – there is always the confusion as to where the lease sticks go and how to balance the back apron rod while putting the warp on the raddle, oh yep, by the way – you WILL need a raddle! unless you are Swedish then…….. that is for another blog.
So….I will probably repost my instructions on warping by this method. As with all things, once you do it… do it again soon so it sinks in!
Add comment November 18, 2010Edit

Autumn in Moorestown

The craft show didn’t bring in huge sales but it was fun! Got several requests for potential commissions and I also received and award for best craft and display. I did a demonstration with my trusty old HD loom and let the children try their hand at weaving. This drew a lot of attention!
Add comment October 24, 2010Edit

Loom Restoration

Some time ago a loom found me. It is an old (early 1900′s”) Swedish style loom with four shafts and 6 treadles. Originally I thought it was just old pine. I recently (in one day) cleaned it up with Murphy’s and gave all pieces a light sanding and saw a beautiful cherry hue to the wood.
This loom is unusual in that it appears to have used some mechanism other than jacks or counterbalance as noted by the pins at the top front of the loom.
Here are some other photos:
The loom needs a new front cloth beam and counterbalance supports and pulleys. Eventually I plan to add a 10 shaft draw attachment and Drall pulleys for Damask.
Add comment October 24, 2010Edit

Autumn in Moorestown – Oct 9

That was quick! I sent in an application for the juried craft event at “Autumn in Moorestown” in early October. I got my “I’m in” letter just 3 days later! Now I have to crank out all the goodies.
This will be my first juried event, I have decided to also take my little Harrisville and do some weaving as a demo. Hoping to catch the crowd that wants something upscale and unique.
Add comment September 27, 2010Edit

AVL & Compudobby – Oldie But Goodie

I finally got the scarf started on the AVL. It is an older loom but in good working condition. The scarf is made of variegated Rayon in blue/turquoise and gold tones. The pattern is a 16 shaft advancing twill, the photos do not do the colors justice. The pattern reminds me of feathers. The pictures show the warp attached to the cloth storage system.
This loom has the compudobby 1 system
Feathered twill

Add comment September 17, 2010Edit

Playing around vs getting down to business

Back onto the merry-go-round! Weave lessons start next month at Woolbearer’s (see the link for more info).
Private lessons conducted in my home or yours are available. I have 3 smaller looms which can also be rented for a nominal fee. Beginner lessons, overshot, drafting, different warping techniques, more than 4 and computer loom weaving are all available. Located conveniently outside of Philadelphia near 95 and 295.
Add comment August 30, 2010Edit

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